Monday, 7 March 2011

Grunge from the beginning

Marc Jacobs- The start of grunge.

Marc Jacobs is known by many as starting the grunge trend, however he didn't start with being grunge and through the years his collections have vastly changed. In 1986 Jacobs designed his first collection with the Marc Jacobs label, mainly hand knitted jumpers and with the signature being mainly 'classic American sports wear'. In 1989 Jacobs and business partner Robert Duffy joined Perry Ellis. This partnership then sparked a whole new look to Jacobs collections. His collections seemed more daring and fun compared to when he first started his own label. He then designed a 'grunge' inspired ( pictured left) collection which lead to him being fired from Perry Ellis. He then got back into the Marc Jacobs label with Duffy and continued producing collections. In 2000 his collections seemed to turn around from the Grunge styled clothes which got him fired. The spring/ summer collection was a sort of  effortless surfer style with canvas trousers, sun dresses and shorts (pictured  right). His Autumn/ Winter collection was a sort of 70's style which featured cashmeres and tweeds with a leather trim in a grown up style, different from his young, fun collection before.
For 2001 there was a certain 80's inspired theme with drawstring tops, twill baggy shorts and tops with pastel coloured appliqued shells on. Then in the fall, the collection was very tailored and feminine with an innocent look. In Spring of 2002 colour was the main theme, with lilac shirts, marigold pants and tulip print dresses. For the fall the bright, happy colours were gone and in there place were darker colours like burgundy and royal blue, however the delicate touch still shone through as before (shown left).
Spring 2003 saw a delicate, feminine touch with deep necklines and flared skirts. For fall Mod seemed to play a part in the collection with a splash of the 60's colour. Spring/ Summer 2004's collection was very light and fresh with neutral shades and seersucker trousers turned up. Autumn/ Winter's collection was in pastel shade of lilac, mint, cream and icy blue with silk blouses, elegant fit-and-flare skirts and lace covered dresses.
Azure, parrot blue, yellow, hot pink and royal purple graced the catwalk for Jacobs Spring/ Summer 2005 collection. Fall went dark and somber with dark shaded coats and skirts with the odd flash of floral dresses. Spring/ Summer 2006 went back to school with uniforms and shirts spelling teachers pet. Then 'blown up American classics' followed with pea jackets, cashmere jumpers and cuffed shorts and trousers (below right).
For fall things went dark again with olive, brown and grey shades with pleated, layered plaid, oversized knits and skirts worn over trousers.  White, cream and black was the colour palette for Spring/ Summer 2007 with flashes of holographic sequins with drop waisted layered skirts, layered t shirts and deconstructed cashmeres. Long coats, ribbed jumpers, printed satin dresses and knee length skirts graced Autumn/ Winter 2007, with the odd 60's jumpsuit.
Spring/ Summer 2008 saw a surrealist edge to Jacobs collection with cashmere jumpers with sheer panels at the waist, three dimensional leather bags and reconstructed beaded ball gowns.
For fall, plain buttoned down skirts, preppy style jumpers and baggy leather trousers could be seen. Mary Poppins seemed like inspiration for Spring/ Summers 2009 collection, with bustled skirts but with a dark 'grunge' twist and biker jackets and chain handled bags. For fall big shoulders, crimped hair of the 80's could be seen however the colours were dark with splashes of clashing colour and the clothes seemed simple enough with grey cardigans and black trousers, then from behind, flashes of kilts and braces could be seen, keeping with that grunge look. (seen below).
Last years Spring/ Summer collection showed military jackets, full skirts with ruffles and retro silk and satin underwear as outerwear. As for the colour palette, pretty natural with nudes, creams and camel, with hints of black and blue, totally contrasting the season previous. Fall last year from Jacobs was ankle socks with pointed toe pumps, sequinned knitwear and velvet dresses, still sticking with the natural colour palette.
This years Spring/ Summer collection its all about colour, leaving the neutral palette behind, but still a million miles from the grunge days of Perry Ellis and 2009. Finally for this years Autumn/ Winter its all about latex, rubber and plastics from Marc Jacob's with Marilyn Manson screaming in the background. As for the colours, looking pretty dark with flashes of red and blue.

So from when Marc Jacobs started his label in '86 his style has changed a lot. His days at Perry ellis meant he went back to using more neutral colours and he then dipped his toe back into the grunge pool in 2009. Because of this daring, bold statement Jacobs decided on when working for Perry Ellis, it started the grunge look and little did he know it would still be popping up for years to come.

Grunge today- Middle market.

Grunge can still be seen in many high street stores. H&M, Topshop, Urban outfitters and All Saints are just a few. Clothing associated with grunge is the check shirt, t shirts with bands on, ripped jeans, Doc Martens, leather jackets and the i don't care sort of look. Many high street stores took on this 'trend' in there sores.
New designers are also trying their hand at the grunge look. Making their collections dark, dingy colours, baggy trousers and oversized jumpers.
Nicholas K is a new designer who started in 2009. His debut collection for both male and females, was quite a casual, easy look with baggy dresses, cardigans, trousers and shirts in neutral cream and heavy back shades. His collection last year for Spring was still that baggy i don't care look however he introduced coloured dresses which were ripped and teamed with a heavy knit. The fall collection last year took on a hugely dark and grunge style for both men and women. The models wore heavy black eye makeup, the colour of the clothes was mainly black and dark grey and they still showing the baggy, layered look. This years Spring collection is still grungy and definate similarities can be seen from the previous collection. however the colours are lighter with a more military look with olive and green shades with browns and greys.

Nicholas K '09-

Nicholas K '10-

Nicholas K '11-

Nicholas K's collections all say faux grunge. The layering, the use of check, the colours and the baggy look. the photos above show some of the items from each collection and as you can tell the garments are appealing as a whole, all together as an outfit. So if you buy the shirt, to get that look people seem to want so badly, you buy the whole outfit. If you just bought the one item then you could put it with something else to create a whole new look, a million miles away from grunge. Acne London, SAKS fifth Avenue, NY, and Nicholas K online are all examples of store which stock the label. the price range is fairly good and you can pick up a shirt for £70 so not only does this look appeal to faux grungers, but also the price tag of not high fashion 'rip offs' as some would say.

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