Monday, 28 February 2011

Armani mens, Spring/ Summer 2011

"At Emporio Armani, there was a distinct gothic, grunge and leather thing going on. Skinny black leather trousers came with leather jackets and shirts that had chains bestowed upon them. The silhouette loosened up later on and into more familiar Emporio territory - though still maintained a tough, if not slightly intimidating, edge."

Nicholas K,

"Nicholas K's strong utilitarian inspired collection takes on a rugged but avant-garde military vibe infused with dusty, earth color tones and a modern spin on classic looks. Keeping the tough and strong nature of army attire, new textures were used this season, including sand-washed cotton velour and a puckered cotton voile, in order to lighten up the feeling of the clothes while providing a layered, draped look.

The line implements a military color palette consisting of rich army greens and browns, creams and navy blues to offer more transitional options. For women, the collection has updated some traditional patterns by adding striped checks and interesting combinations like a woodland and fog camouflage while mixing in olive drab outerwear that highlights the military feel of the collection.

For men, sheer basics and scoop neck shirting provide a light, spring feel. Jackets and sweaters were focal points in both collections with contrasting patched fatigues and oversized hoods throughout. By inserting transitional pieces, such as trench coats that have removable hoods and sleeves and washed chocolate leathers, this collection offers multiple ways for the pieces to be worn while providing statement layering essentials."

Grunge or Faux Grunge?

Nicholas K's new collection in my opinion scream grunge. The check shirts, worker style boots & general 'I dont care' look. The clothes are easy to wear and give an effortless style which is hugely popular among men and women.  Although the show reports states the collection is very 'military', I do agree with the military vibe and can see where they are coming from with the colours, layering & boot style however for me, this says faux Grunge all over.

Richard Chai, Autumn/ Winter 2011-12

Richard Chai's current collection shows him  playing with the neo-grunge trend from last season, the collection features slouched tops which came past the knee with big coats in neutrals and navy.
He also played with layers by teaming a subtly pleated skirt in grey over straight leg trousers with a long cardigan and nude sequin top to add a touch of glamour. The dresses came in maxi styles in grey tones that came with feminine floral prints in purple, white and orange and also figure hugging knitwear dresses and big neutral sleeveless jackets were belted at the waist.

Grunge or faux Grunge?
It has to be faux grunge in my opinion. Chai's previous collections, although quite slouchy are no where near as relaxed and baggy as his current collection. The slouchy chunky knit cardigan over the normal feminine maxi dress adds a grunge, comfy look. Also Chai himself can be seen wearing grunge style clothing from walking out onto the catwalk after the show. In most shows he sports trousers in dark colours, check shirt either on or around the wait, boots or plimsole style shoes and slouchy t shirts or a denim shirt.  This ticks all the 'Grunge Checklist' points, showing that grunge is no longer a subculture or way of life, more of a fashion/ trend.

Richard Chai, Grunge?