Wednesday, 9 March 2011

Richard Chai is a new designer, who released his first collection in 2004. Previous to this he worked with Marc Jacobs and helped launch the Marc by Marc Jacobs label. His style is highly tailored and slightly feminine. In 2008 Chai released his menswear line which got him the recognition he has today.
Chai's style is casual but mixes fabrics like silks with wool and tweed. Until recently Chai's collections seemed to be pretty feminine and delicate with no spark of grunge at all. His current collection for fall 2011 tells a different story. the picture on the left is from Chai's menswear collection for 2011. The baggy, dull coloured look on his menswear collection definitely has a grunge influence. His womenswear also for 2011 seems to have turned over  anew leaf with tailored, fitted feminine styles (see right) being replaced with baggy, oversized knits over trousers with coats (bottom right). His first collection for womenswear seemed to be all nude and white with an innocent touch but that has been dirtied up with blacks, dark blue, olives and browns.
Richard Chai's stocks at places like Matches of London. Because of his price tag, Chai seems to be high end grunge, with dresses around the £350 mark.

Monday, 7 March 2011

Grunge from the beginning

Marc Jacobs- The start of grunge.

Marc Jacobs is known by many as starting the grunge trend, however he didn't start with being grunge and through the years his collections have vastly changed. In 1986 Jacobs designed his first collection with the Marc Jacobs label, mainly hand knitted jumpers and with the signature being mainly 'classic American sports wear'. In 1989 Jacobs and business partner Robert Duffy joined Perry Ellis. This partnership then sparked a whole new look to Jacobs collections. His collections seemed more daring and fun compared to when he first started his own label. He then designed a 'grunge' inspired ( pictured left) collection which lead to him being fired from Perry Ellis. He then got back into the Marc Jacobs label with Duffy and continued producing collections. In 2000 his collections seemed to turn around from the Grunge styled clothes which got him fired. The spring/ summer collection was a sort of  effortless surfer style with canvas trousers, sun dresses and shorts (pictured  right). His Autumn/ Winter collection was a sort of 70's style which featured cashmeres and tweeds with a leather trim in a grown up style, different from his young, fun collection before.
For 2001 there was a certain 80's inspired theme with drawstring tops, twill baggy shorts and tops with pastel coloured appliqued shells on. Then in the fall, the collection was very tailored and feminine with an innocent look. In Spring of 2002 colour was the main theme, with lilac shirts, marigold pants and tulip print dresses. For the fall the bright, happy colours were gone and in there place were darker colours like burgundy and royal blue, however the delicate touch still shone through as before (shown left).
Spring 2003 saw a delicate, feminine touch with deep necklines and flared skirts. For fall Mod seemed to play a part in the collection with a splash of the 60's colour. Spring/ Summer 2004's collection was very light and fresh with neutral shades and seersucker trousers turned up. Autumn/ Winter's collection was in pastel shade of lilac, mint, cream and icy blue with silk blouses, elegant fit-and-flare skirts and lace covered dresses.
Azure, parrot blue, yellow, hot pink and royal purple graced the catwalk for Jacobs Spring/ Summer 2005 collection. Fall went dark and somber with dark shaded coats and skirts with the odd flash of floral dresses. Spring/ Summer 2006 went back to school with uniforms and shirts spelling teachers pet. Then 'blown up American classics' followed with pea jackets, cashmere jumpers and cuffed shorts and trousers (below right).
For fall things went dark again with olive, brown and grey shades with pleated, layered plaid, oversized knits and skirts worn over trousers.  White, cream and black was the colour palette for Spring/ Summer 2007 with flashes of holographic sequins with drop waisted layered skirts, layered t shirts and deconstructed cashmeres. Long coats, ribbed jumpers, printed satin dresses and knee length skirts graced Autumn/ Winter 2007, with the odd 60's jumpsuit.
Spring/ Summer 2008 saw a surrealist edge to Jacobs collection with cashmere jumpers with sheer panels at the waist, three dimensional leather bags and reconstructed beaded ball gowns.
For fall, plain buttoned down skirts, preppy style jumpers and baggy leather trousers could be seen. Mary Poppins seemed like inspiration for Spring/ Summers 2009 collection, with bustled skirts but with a dark 'grunge' twist and biker jackets and chain handled bags. For fall big shoulders, crimped hair of the 80's could be seen however the colours were dark with splashes of clashing colour and the clothes seemed simple enough with grey cardigans and black trousers, then from behind, flashes of kilts and braces could be seen, keeping with that grunge look. (seen below).
Last years Spring/ Summer collection showed military jackets, full skirts with ruffles and retro silk and satin underwear as outerwear. As for the colour palette, pretty natural with nudes, creams and camel, with hints of black and blue, totally contrasting the season previous. Fall last year from Jacobs was ankle socks with pointed toe pumps, sequinned knitwear and velvet dresses, still sticking with the natural colour palette.
This years Spring/ Summer collection its all about colour, leaving the neutral palette behind, but still a million miles from the grunge days of Perry Ellis and 2009. Finally for this years Autumn/ Winter its all about latex, rubber and plastics from Marc Jacob's with Marilyn Manson screaming in the background. As for the colours, looking pretty dark with flashes of red and blue.

So from when Marc Jacobs started his label in '86 his style has changed a lot. His days at Perry ellis meant he went back to using more neutral colours and he then dipped his toe back into the grunge pool in 2009. Because of this daring, bold statement Jacobs decided on when working for Perry Ellis, it started the grunge look and little did he know it would still be popping up for years to come.

Grunge today- Middle market.

Grunge can still be seen in many high street stores. H&M, Topshop, Urban outfitters and All Saints are just a few. Clothing associated with grunge is the check shirt, t shirts with bands on, ripped jeans, Doc Martens, leather jackets and the i don't care sort of look. Many high street stores took on this 'trend' in there sores.
New designers are also trying their hand at the grunge look. Making their collections dark, dingy colours, baggy trousers and oversized jumpers.
Nicholas K is a new designer who started in 2009. His debut collection for both male and females, was quite a casual, easy look with baggy dresses, cardigans, trousers and shirts in neutral cream and heavy back shades. His collection last year for Spring was still that baggy i don't care look however he introduced coloured dresses which were ripped and teamed with a heavy knit. The fall collection last year took on a hugely dark and grunge style for both men and women. The models wore heavy black eye makeup, the colour of the clothes was mainly black and dark grey and they still showing the baggy, layered look. This years Spring collection is still grungy and definate similarities can be seen from the previous collection. however the colours are lighter with a more military look with olive and green shades with browns and greys.

Nicholas K '09-

Nicholas K '10-

Nicholas K '11-

Nicholas K's collections all say faux grunge. The layering, the use of check, the colours and the baggy look. the photos above show some of the items from each collection and as you can tell the garments are appealing as a whole, all together as an outfit. So if you buy the shirt, to get that look people seem to want so badly, you buy the whole outfit. If you just bought the one item then you could put it with something else to create a whole new look, a million miles away from grunge. Acne London, SAKS fifth Avenue, NY, and Nicholas K online are all examples of store which stock the label. the price range is fairly good and you can pick up a shirt for £70 so not only does this look appeal to faux grungers, but also the price tag of not high fashion 'rip offs' as some would say.

Monday, 28 February 2011

Armani mens, Spring/ Summer 2011

"At Emporio Armani, there was a distinct gothic, grunge and leather thing going on. Skinny black leather trousers came with leather jackets and shirts that had chains bestowed upon them. The silhouette loosened up later on and into more familiar Emporio territory - though still maintained a tough, if not slightly intimidating, edge."

Nicholas K,

"Nicholas K's strong utilitarian inspired collection takes on a rugged but avant-garde military vibe infused with dusty, earth color tones and a modern spin on classic looks. Keeping the tough and strong nature of army attire, new textures were used this season, including sand-washed cotton velour and a puckered cotton voile, in order to lighten up the feeling of the clothes while providing a layered, draped look.

The line implements a military color palette consisting of rich army greens and browns, creams and navy blues to offer more transitional options. For women, the collection has updated some traditional patterns by adding striped checks and interesting combinations like a woodland and fog camouflage while mixing in olive drab outerwear that highlights the military feel of the collection.

For men, sheer basics and scoop neck shirting provide a light, spring feel. Jackets and sweaters were focal points in both collections with contrasting patched fatigues and oversized hoods throughout. By inserting transitional pieces, such as trench coats that have removable hoods and sleeves and washed chocolate leathers, this collection offers multiple ways for the pieces to be worn while providing statement layering essentials."

Grunge or Faux Grunge?

Nicholas K's new collection in my opinion scream grunge. The check shirts, worker style boots & general 'I dont care' look. The clothes are easy to wear and give an effortless style which is hugely popular among men and women.  Although the show reports states the collection is very 'military', I do agree with the military vibe and can see where they are coming from with the colours, layering & boot style however for me, this says faux Grunge all over.

Richard Chai, Autumn/ Winter 2011-12

Richard Chai's current collection shows him  playing with the neo-grunge trend from last season, the collection features slouched tops which came past the knee with big coats in neutrals and navy.
He also played with layers by teaming a subtly pleated skirt in grey over straight leg trousers with a long cardigan and nude sequin top to add a touch of glamour. The dresses came in maxi styles in grey tones that came with feminine floral prints in purple, white and orange and also figure hugging knitwear dresses and big neutral sleeveless jackets were belted at the waist.

Grunge or faux Grunge?
It has to be faux grunge in my opinion. Chai's previous collections, although quite slouchy are no where near as relaxed and baggy as his current collection. The slouchy chunky knit cardigan over the normal feminine maxi dress adds a grunge, comfy look. Also Chai himself can be seen wearing grunge style clothing from walking out onto the catwalk after the show. In most shows he sports trousers in dark colours, check shirt either on or around the wait, boots or plimsole style shoes and slouchy t shirts or a denim shirt.  This ticks all the 'Grunge Checklist' points, showing that grunge is no longer a subculture or way of life, more of a fashion/ trend.

Richard Chai, Grunge?

Monday, 31 January 2011

Amelia's Magazine

Grunge meets MOD?


Dazed & Confused

United Colors of Benetton &....Grunge??

Nylon Magazine

'Perry Ellis, Spring '93'

"Marc jacobs got fired for creating a grunge collection for the preppy label, but at least he put plaid on the fashion map before he exited."

Friday, 21 January 2011

After discussing Grunge with the group, we raised many questions about what grunge is, is it still alive? and if so where ad who?
After taking all of this into consideration we have decided to focus on the 'faux grunge' style. This is basically what we have decided is people who dress what is classed as 'grunge' for fashion and not because they live the lifestyle of a stereotypical 'grunger'.
So what next? Well we plan to go around London in the next few weeks to photograph people who have that grunge style and ask them questions (without offending) about where they get there clothes from, what music they like and what they would describe there style as. This will then be documented on the blog.
We also plan on looking at celebrities and 'style icons' who have that grunge look. for example Kate Moss? The Olsen twins?  and 'old time grungers' chrildren to see if they have picked up there parents grunger style.